Resort 2013Sunday, June 10 2012
(Balenciaga Resort 2013 – images: Style.com)
The curtain rises on Resort 2013 with ballet-inspired Balenciaga. Now don’t go expecting girly frills and cutesy tutus, Nicolas Ghesquière is not one for literal renditions. His pre-collection centres around fluidity, sculptural motifs and, well ruffles (a more sophisticated take on the frill if you will), in an innocent palette of baby pink, baby blue and bergamot (I would call it baby yellow, but I’ll let the artist name the colour). The whole thing is tied together in a hard/soft kind of way. Think leather harness fastened over a romantic dress. Fabric is the protagonist here, both in essence (check out the scubawear on show) and in play (everything is cut-out, draped, folded and creased to perfection). Only thing I really can’t get my head round are those facetious origami sandals. Nicolas, do please explain..
(The Row Resort 2013 – images: Style.com)
Coming up, our CFDA Womenswear Designer of the year laureates. Double trouble, in a good way. With their pre-spring collection for The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley had us sitting on the edge of our seats, screaming for more. Or maybe that was just me, in front of my computer screen. If so I apologise for the noise, but that is the sound of my fashion dreams coming true. Admittedly, some of the silhouettes felt a little too grown up to dress the likes of me. Only some mind. But most just made me want to feng-shui my entire wardrobe and move on to an exclusively minimalistic aesthetic of understated luxury. Oh and the coats! Such compelling outerwear as I have ever seen. Weatherproof, structured and far from classic. The buzzword may have been timeless, but don’t mistake that for conventional. No siree.
(left: Theyskens’ Theory Resort 2013; right: Proenza Schouler Resort 2013 – images: Style.com)
At Theyskens’ Theory, baggy faded denim and trouser suits ruled the runway, alongside oversized leather jackets, another reminder that both leather and ‘boyfriend’ garnments are here to stay. Which brings us to Proenza Schouler, and incidentally my favourite pre-Spring look so far (am I really that predictable?). That jacket. Mamma Mia. I need to lie down for a bit…
(left Lanvin Resort 2013. Right Michael Kors Resort 2013 – images: Style.com)
Next, an ode to Willy Wonka. Alber Elbaz and Michael Kors reveal garments evocative of the covetable golden ticket that still has me crossing my fingers everytime I buy a chocolate bar. Tinfoil sartorialism was not the main focus though, with Lanvin offering up a bold and bright mashup of feminine pleats, seductive stripes, and one particularly fanciful belted-up tulip coat in soft black leather. Resort with Alber is utterly wearable, but mercifully never down to earth. What a waste of his genius that would be. Meanwhile Michael Kors flew the flag for the monarchy with a colour palette fit for a King: regal-gold ikat motifs and royal blue hues were mixed in with blacks and whites. I wonder if Her Majesty was impressed.
Last but not least, a surprise of sorts. Normally, I am not one to fall for Roberto Cavalli’s garish aesthetics, but somehow this season I am sold. I blame it on the flat-bill caps, you know what I’m like. And somehow, the loud sport-meets-hip-hop-meets-saturated-tropical-print outfits on show really got my fashion whiskers tickling. I hear his inspiration came from a recent trip to India, and perhaps this explains why the general onda is not quite as eurotrash (pardon my French) as we have been accustomed to. Don’t want to be the party pooper, but I like this newfound compromise, and hope to see more of it in the Spring. But a little more individuality wouldn’t go amiss. A hint of Tisci in the print, once, we will allow. Twice, and accusations will start flying. Roberto, you have been warned!
Now back to to you, what have been your resort highs and lows so far?
Do please let me know.