Monday, 24 September 2012

Milan - the good and the bad

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(Ph/Charlotte)

I thought I had soaked-up as much fashion as my poor brain could muster last weekend, but the show(s) must go on. So on to Milan we went - that is, style dot com went; I cyber-FROWed (yup, that is a thing .. with live streams covering all the big boys, added to the speediness at which runway shots get uploaded to the system, you are in on the action in (quasi) real time nowadays - something that calls for a proper discussion I'm sure, so more about that later). While we are all here then, we may as well raise one or two points about what the Italian fashion capital had to say for itself. The first being - obviously - Prada

I'm just going to speak it as it is: if I hear one more 'killed it, as ever', So. Help. Me. God. Not because I hated it (I did, but that's neither here nor there), but because at this point, it is almost a case of the Emperor's new clothes. Everyone loved it you see, yet no one seems able to construe a rationale as to why. If Miuccia says it's fashion, then apparently we all have to nod our heads, gushing ohs and ahs at what undeniably bears the mark of the chav(y tourist). The way I see it, we now know that la signora Prada is one of those people who like to wear socks in their flip-flops. Leather does not, I repeat, does NOT elevate the look (and don't even get me started on the split toe - it was bad enough when Margiela  came up with it .. at this rate, the finger-shoe is set to become the next wardrobe staple). There is no such thing as haute chaviness, albeit Prada endorsed. And the clothes? Besides the fact that I found the collection really quite sombre (I speak metaphorically here as well as palette wise), the use of florals was a little baffling. The first dress basically looked like some kids had got to it with a can of spray snow and daisy stencils just before it walked out. But since the following eleven silhouettes also delivered the 'frosted window' florals, I was forced to acknowledge authenticity. Some might call this genius, avant-garde and fresh. I call it uncouth, a little tacky, and, well, out of season. If you are going to use Christmas decoration kits to 'embellish' your garments, shouldn't it at least be done for fall/winter? So if you are one of those who feel like Miuccia killed it, by all means please do spell out the specifics, I am genuinely curious. Anyway, enough of the bad. Moving on to the good.

The very good even. Jil Sander. Jil by Jil. My heart having been lost to Raf Simons, who had me at hello back in 2005, I had secretly intended to - if not actively dislike - at least passively brush-off the label's spring-summer getup. Raf better not bear a grudge, cuz it turns out that this is not only my favourite collection so far this season, but also very possibly my favourite Jil Sander story to date. Given my above disgruntlement for unwarranted love, I suppose I better tell you why. Jil Sander likes to keep things pared down to the max, so I'm sure she will let my words abide by her rules. Here are a few that come to mind. Wearable is one. Clean another. Simple yet precise, the aesthetic was modern to the point of being futuristic, with a passing (heeled) nod to the 60's Courrèges boot. It echoed the Raf touch (delicate waistlines, accentuated by exaggerated hip volume), but went further to explore new-minimalism horizons such as the sci-fi polka dot. I absolutely loved it. All hail the return of the Queen.

Now only remains finding out  whether my two all-time favourites Mr Simons and Ms Philo can surpass themselves yet again this season. The anticipation is killing me! Paris, you better bring it! Oh, and hope you like today's sweat x leather combo. I fear it was the last chance to bare the leg this year.

Skirt: Zara (old -similar here or here)
Sweatshirt: Ba&sh (similar here or here)
Boots: Zara
Bag: Celine
Sunnies: RayBan

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49 comments:

  1. Magnifique tenue, j'adore ces couleurs automnales!

    www.laurablogmode.com

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  2. i love your coat and your booties
    fran

    NEW LOOK....RELAX!
    http://showroomdegarde.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/just-green.html

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  3. Lovely look! And can't wait for your Paris reports!! Xx

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  4. gorgeous, love those shoes and how you have unbuckled them, really loving your blog find myself stalking it everyday haha xx

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  5. Coat, skirt, boots: love all!

    www.fashioncontainer.com

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  6. Love the boots,
    but Milan isn't the Italian capital, Rome is.
    Milan is the Italian fashion capital.
    Just saying :)

    x

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    1. ah that was suppose to read italian fashion capital.. thanks for spotting that..

      Funnily enough, this is actually a topic very close to home :) Last time the boy and I went to Italy for a holiday we had a massive argument upon arrival about whether the capital was Rome or Milan.. Needless to say the taxi driver back-up me up .. And look at me now, ruinning all my credentials haha.

      Cx

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  7. I saw you yesterday in Milan and you look stunning...but I didn't say "hi" since I realized almost now that it was you :)!
    p.s.= great look

    baci,
    Lens&anythingElse

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    1. Lol it was not me, I was very much at home in London hiding from the rain yesterday. Cx

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  8. I totally agree with you on Prada :-(

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  9. I couldn't agree more, I'm so excited to see what Raf has in store for us!

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  10. I wonder how you manage to walk in those shoes...let alone unbuckled! But the look is great!
    "The way I see it, we now know that la signora Prada is one of those people who like to wear socks in their flip-flops" You made me laugh on a Monday morning...thanks!

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  11. They are not at all as bad as they look.. I treked all around Notting Hill like that (as in unbuckled) on Saturday - totally tricked my body into thinking they were normal biker boots hehe.

    I'm relieved to see you read the piece... seems like a lot of people quickly eye-up the outfit pics and then move on to their next cyber-wander. So thanks :)

    Cx

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  12. such a great outfit! love all the fall colors :)

    xoxo,

    Fashion Fractions

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  13. Yes of course! I would not miss a word! At first I look at the pictures: they're always so strong and inspiring that I have to wait a few minutes to recover:) Then onto the reading. It's always beautifully written and unique. I'm not even that interested in fashion shows but I like your take on things.
    It's my daily treat; I have my way of making it last!
    Actually the shoes look easy to walk on you, but I just know for having bought them!I'll definetely give them another shot now though :)

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  14. Lovely skirt and boots!

    http://turn-it-insideout.blogspot.be/

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  15. J'adore ces couleurs, très chouette. Le manteau simple et classe structure bien la tenue sweat+mini en cuir.
    Et pour Prada euh... que dire d'autre que "Est-ce qu'on s'est moqué de nous?" J'imagine qu'elle recherchait une certaine originalité avec un zeste de fraicheur enfantine. Mais c'est un carnage. Il me semblait que Monsieur Lagerfeld participait aux collections Prada... (un reportage sur Karl vu il y a quelques mois sur arte. Il regardait les tenues et les corrigeait juste avant que la collection soit présentée ). Je me demande si il a participé à cette collection, ça me laisse perplexe...
    Et merci d'avoir un certain oeil critique sur les défilés, ça manque souvent sur les blogs... et tes looks sont tops (mais je crois te l'avoir déjà dit).

    Alexandra, depuis Bordeaux, loin des Fashion Weeks, hélas.

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  16. wow, awesome look! classy as always

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  17. Love it!! X

    http://dontthinkjustfeel-yuka.blogspot.com/

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  18. great outfit- like the combination of knit and leather!

    www.walkonthestylesite.blogspot.com

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  19. This outfit is perfection! I love it!
    I am so glad I'm not the only one who didn't like Prada! It was weird and boring...I hope Miu Miu is better...
    But I loved Jil's collection, especially the first look. So perfect :D
    http://www.closet-fashionista.com/

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  20. Ahhh Paris- I am dyyyying as well! And Givenchy!!!

    Prada? I want one of those fluffy fur coats ASAP (and the sunglasses!)

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  21. I love this outfit so much! I've been craving that coat for a while now and those boots.. Aah! I love the sweater with the leather skirt as well and then that bag, oh let's just say I love the entire outfit :) and you're right about Prada, it was kinda childish xxx

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  22. You look great! I bought those boots yesterday. And i'm in loveeee

    http://itsraininghas.blogspot.com

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  23. such beautiful and chic look! love the coat and skirt! xo, Alma
    http://www.soulofashopper.com

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  24. Not only is this look perfect, but your writing has just nailed the issue. Can't agree with you more!

    xo Camilla

    Into The Fold
    don't forget to enter the giveaway on my blog!

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  25. Girl, you know I love ya', but you can't unabashedly pan a woman that has cemented herself in history as a fashion, and cultural innovator in such a flippant way...!
    She doesn't formulate a collection on the same terms as a high-street buyer- remember it's catwalk, and won't all go into production; what we're seeing is runway- the OTT take on what will actually go on shelves... s'like an all-frills cake, when you'll only eat the sponge... you want the whole fuckin' thing, whether you'll scoff the lot, or not- who's ever served an un-iced cake at a party?
    - & that's what a fashion show's about- it's an occasion- an event!- to present an aesthetic as a whole, however "pret-a-porter" it's considered being. Remember, she's got a tonne of other lines to keep the cash coming in- the minimalism/ marketability of resort is testament to that (it's primary purpose is to make money- so no frills, or added extras).

    Specific to Spring/ Summer- I'm by no means bowled over- but the attention to detail- the macro-embellished jacquards, and Miuccia's directional, modernist take on a look so garbed by tradition, it's for-the-most-part left untouched. She took that Eastern-influence, and made it relevant with her folds- origami pleating duchesse satin (juxtaposing that fundamental fluidity with the rigidity of those folds) - something seemingly piss-easy, but surprisingly not been done.
    The florals- not at all baffling either- a chinoiserie staple, and also an established motif for femininity- again, that unlikely juxtaposition (graphically overt, as opposed to delicate, like tradition dictates).

    I'd wear NONE of it, but guuuuurl (again, you know I know ya'), "looked like some kids had got to it", and "it was bad enough..."
    Ye cannae say that- or you can, but- it totally undermines a designer's work; overlooking the minute detail, and ways inspirations manifest... Remember, all of this ("this" being their inclination to pursue a career in design) was born out of creative-expression- something inherently personal, and [paradoxically, I know...] introspective, so who are we to flippantly bash what they produce...?

    & the Margiela thing... again, I'd sooner walk around in Tyvek slip-ons, but the influence of the Tabi's heel- as opposed to its trotter-toe- is indubitably all-over, I've walked into Dune- & LORD, TELL NO ONE- Barratts, and seen its influence on their stands (it's just permeated as subtly as the ripped jeans, and split-back Ts that they were first to cotton on to).
    I'm totally done procrastinating now/ remembered Hollyoaks is coming on.
    But yeah, you asked for feedback- SEE, I READ YOUR BLOG!- so here's a logorrheic, un-proofread response.

    -Again- just in case- Love, and miss ya'- OBVS.
    Sara-x

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    1. How refreshing, an in your face response as opposed to the usual 'love your look' (no offence everyone else). Sara, you know I love ya back.

      It's so funny, I don't think I have ever felt so strongly against a collection, well ever. I genuinely hated it. And I think the fact that everybody keeps reminding me what a genius the women is, has basically had the opposite effect, hence my writing in such an overtly flippant manner as you so rightfully point out.

      I do agree with you of course, Miuccia is a wonderful designer, a visionary of sorts, who is able to see past the present politico-social climate and come up with a fresh take on the world (and on the flower apparently). I don't think I would dare to write about a young 'un in the way I have here. It is precisely because I know that Miuccia is basically the modern Goddess of Italian Fashion that I feel I am allowed to voice my opinion in such an unabashedly crude manner. I don't think I have read a single review that wasn't ravying about her new take on femininity. Well, I don't get it, I really don't. And though that is probably precisely what stears me away from the high fashion clan, because I don't (yet?) have the open-mindness to appreciate the collection for what it suggests as opposed to what it looks like.

      I would apologies to Miuccia of course if I thought my words could cause offense, but let's be honnest she's got bigger fish to fry. And I hope this explains that.

      Cx

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    2. @Sara I disagree with you on two points here...

      1. Actually what we're seeing on the runway *IS* what a lot of us buy and isn't just intended to inspire high street knock-offs and the designer's own ghastly diffusion lines (that's just a side effect).

      2. I don't see why we can't react negatively to a designer's work - in all other fields of human endeavour we are allowed to criticise. When an author pens some trashy novel it will be ripped to shreds by reviewers on TV, in newspapers and on the net, even if he/she has been considered a literary genius up to that point. I don't understand why fashion designers are not subjected to the same forms of criticism by the public. Just because you work hard on something (although we have no idea that Miuccia did indeed work hard on this personally, given that Prada is a huge company) doesn't make it good. Only magazines need to be disgustingly positive about everything because they need the advertising revenue and their journalists like the continued cachet of invites to shows and parties, store discounts and generous gifts.

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  26. Flippin' Nora, that was long- can def delete that for space's sake x

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    1. you better not delete, I knows you too well.

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  27. I love your look !
    Kisses!
    Camille

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  28. my (half) city!
    how's the fashion week in milan?
    i know isn't going so well as the others...

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  29. wow i love your coat! it has such a beautiful colour!

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  30. Great!! I love your skirt!! It's so formal! I love

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  31. Très jolie tenue j'adore absolument tout :)Les Boots sont canon !

    Bises.

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  32. love it!!!

    http://claudiadomenech.blogspot.com.es/

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  33. Love your outfit ! The colours are dark, but look so good together

    Interesting to read your very honest opinion about the show, it's nice that you dare to go " against the stream" . I haven't seen them yet, but now I'm even more curious

    www.tripsandtreasures.net
    new outfit post

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  34. Gorgeous outfit, love your skirt and the combination with the knit and boots is awesome!

    www.creativityandchocolate.blogspot.com

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  35. Agree about Prada, but then again I often don't like Prada collections. I loved SS11 but since then haven't liked much at all. Looks 1-12 were OK in their way, although that floral print looked like the tacky wall decoration inside a French motorway Campanile hotel. I did like the floral fur clutch bag though. But the shoes... Meadham Kirchhoff knock-off rejects.

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  36. Crap, forgot to say I disagree about Jil! I thought it was terribly dull and you could already buy the high street copies of that collection in COS. Two years ago. Those twisty brown/white boots were just...eugh. Did like the clutches with the wrist-straps. I wish Raf could come back and design for them again. And Dior.

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  37. Love this look, can't get over it :)

    x

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  38. Canonissime cette tenue!bises

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  39. WOW really love your Look! Great Style!

    www.modelovers.com
    www.modelovers.com
    www.modelovers.com

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  40. Too bad I missed you, I would love to snap a photo of the awesomeness of outfit you've wearing !!

    xo xo

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  41. You and your style are awesome!

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  42. Prada, c'était monstrueux, tout le monde est humain, même "Miu Miu". Elle a fauté, bon voilà. Mais on peut pas décemment dire que c'était une réussite. Non, non.

    See U !

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Thank you for your comments. I read every single one of them x x x