Wednesday, 10 October 2012

When conceptual style meets democratic fashion

MMM X HM4MMM X HM1MMM X HM2
MMM X HM3
MMM X HM5
(Ph/H&M)

When highstreet King H&M announced in June the name of the next fashion house to design a  capsule collection for them, the world came to a halt, if only for a moment ... myself included. Many advanced that, had the highly elusive eponymous designer not left the building, Maison Martin Margiela would never have sold its avant-garde soul to the purveyor of disposable fashion. Was this not the very antithesis of what the creator of this legendary house had stood for? And how could MMM's radical universe be translated into something that would appeal to the masses? The whole initiative could go very wrong, in more ways than one. Another concern, as I pointed out when I first heard the news, was that this would turn into a case of slapping a MMM/anonymous label on a basic white tee, and retailing for 100 quid a pop.

But the 23-piece collection has in fact remained surprisingly faithful to the essence of the brand. So faithful in fact that, according to British Vogue, it is made up of iconic re-editions from the Maison's archive. Even the campaign, photographed by Sam Taylor-Johnson, plays up to the brand's signature mysterious aesthetic, with the decor echoing what I hear the rue St Maur's former convent looks like on the inside - though here it is not the furniture obscured by dust covers, but the parked cars on the street. And it goes on. Conceptual attire is to be expected, like the faux-foil metallic candy clutch reworked from SS'10, or the sock sweater that was imagined for AW'91. Forget mainstream, ambiguity will play a leading role throughout with a 'vertical dress' (see above, campaign image No2), invisible pumps, and the inside-out bra body from SS'07, all set to make a comeback. New shapes, exaggerated volumes and complex layers will be offered-up for grabs at bargain prices. Now all that remains is to find out what fabrics have been used. The success of the enterprise rests on this alone, I'm sure. Meanwhile, let's embrace the opportunity, even if deep down we know that this was not meant to happen. I for one will definitely be joining the ranks on November 15th.
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15 comments:

  1. I just found your blog and fell for it!

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  2. Loving those silver pants! can´t wait for this collection! xo, Alma
    http://www.soulofashopper.com

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  3. cool baby!
    fran

    NEW LOOK: COWBOY
    http://showroomdegarde.blogspot.com.es/2012/10/urban-cowboy.html

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  4. I saw the collection at work on Monday, it is BONKERS! But in a good way of course, and Margiela down to a tee! Took us after 20 minutes to figure out the duvet coat, I can't wait to see how this collection goes down. I don't know how the usual H&M customer will feel about the collection as it's certainly not for the masses, it will be interesting to see if it sells out as quickly as previous collaborations. But then again, there are enough budding fashionistas (I hate that word, but needs must) who will eat up this collection like hot cakes!

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  5. Le simple fait de rééditer ses propres pièces donne une toute autre dimension à cette collaboration. J'ai vraiment hâte de voir le résultat version H&M!

    Fanny

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  6. Looks awesome and love that 4th photo!

    www.creativityandchocolate.blogspot.com

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  7. I need to have the silver pants!

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  8. ohh I'm lovin the silver pants

    xo Camilla

    Into The Fold

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  9. this is the one collaboration I have been waiting for since it was announced. The editorial photos look amazing! Can't wait to see it in November!

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  10. Love the white coat!!
    http://bonnieclydemarni.blogspot.gr/

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  11. Not sure this collection is for the masses but I do love what I see. Like the ADR for H&M collection, I believe only fashion 'heads' will love and understand this collaboration.

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  12. the white coat is amazing
    xx

    www.pretpenser.com
    www.pretpenser.com

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  13. amazing photos!

    http://rnrfairytale.blogspot.com/

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  14. I like the metallic trousers!!
    http://marianjusue.blogspot.com

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  15. Love Maison Martin Margiela! Highly anticipating this collaboration! :-)

    http://aurelieandangelo.com/

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Thank you for your comments. I read every single one of them x x x