Pre-fallin (in love with you)Wednesday, January 9 2013
Amidst the grand opening of London Collections: Men(aka bang-a-model week), one would almost be forgiven for losing track of those few Pre-Fall presentations playing hard to get.. So it came as a bit of a shock when suddenly all the big dogs let the cat out of the bag in unison.Way to steel the boys’ thunder – tut tut!
(Givenchy Pre-Fall 2013 via Style.com)
Tisci came first, and those life-changing resolutions that some of us agreed to trial (like, say, banishing the word ‘literally’ from our fashun lexicon) flew straight out the window. The Givenchy man took last season’s recurring Wild West theme, and brought it closer to home. To our side of the pond that is. Think British pastures – see that cow-slash-girl (literally!) -and Spanish plaza de toros (you spotted that matador cape too, right?).
Besides the cattle accents, a few Ghesquiere-ish ruffles (though I’m told the intent was to reference the work of Italian designer Walter Albini andarchitect Gio Ponti–fair enough), the usualmirroredprints, sharp angles and, erm, yes, he’s at it too, shower shoes. Current status : boycotting. I refuse to go there, no matter how many of my all time fav designers try make me.
(Celine Pre-Fall 2013 via Style.com)
Meanwhile, Phoebe must have got wind of the fact that Kimye were planning their whole post-maternity wardrobe around her next collection, so did what any sensible mother would, andbuttoned-up. Not literally (snap!), as physical buttons shone by their absence in most of the photographed visuals, but certainly in jest with a collection that would have a hard time standing out amongst an Amish crowd. That unborn baby (potential godchild?) will thank her someday, mark my words.
Once, many moons ago we might have had to double take at those (technically) flat shoes, but the industry’s blossoming love for horizontal footwear has long reached new heights. At this point, the rallying cry seems to bethe flatter, the merrier (see also: Chanel, Reed Krakoffand Givenchy). Flatforms, plateforms – Potato, potato. Inretrospect,I’ll eat my (straw) hat and go for the shower shoes instead.
(Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2013 via Style.com)
Fortunately, theScandinavianshave given up on cheesy cowboy aesthetics, and gone back to what they do best: seriously coolutilitarian-wear. Maybe because the temperatures have finally dropped and the Winter we were hoping skipped town has finally checked in, this presentation was the one that resonated the most with me so far (I’m saving myself for Stella, duh!). Coats were explored in more ways than one: from fur-lined trapeze parkas, to classic tailored blazers, fluffy faux-fur jackets andshearling-collared peacoats, complete with matching headgear. The styling was immaculate, with layer-upon-layer ofunevenlyproportioned separates, and the settings as desolate as expected.
What else? Pretty, pretty at Chloé, comme always, dark sophistication at Lanvinand good-girl chic at Carven. And as long as no-one suggest weskip summer (climate change will see to that) to get our hands on thetranseasonalgoodness I might be inclined to call this round a raving success. Fall/Winter better step up its game. Pre-fall done gooooood.