Wednesday, 30 January 2013

The joke is on them

Saint Laurent SS13Harper's Bazaar UK - February 2013 by Tom Allen
(Ph/ Style.com, Harper's Bazaar UK - February 2013 by Tom Allen and Saint Laurent SS13 campaign shot by Hedi Slimane)

The fuss, the crushing cynicism, the resonating anti-climax surrounding Hedi Slimane's debut collection definitely pervaded our impression of the new Saint Laurent woman. To be perfectly honest, when I first set  eyes on her, I wasn't sure - though I couldn't tell you now whether this was my own mind speaking, or that of the many, many negative reviews that may have clouded my judgement. After all, it's hard to trust your gut when everyone who is anyone thinks that one of the most prestigious fashion houses has gone to the dogs. Ok maybe not to the dogs - but certainly a little too far downtown in boho-chic la-la Land. 

Fast forward to the present, and I think we can all agree that here is some of the most covetable ready-to-wear available in town this season. Wearable, well-tailored, and well-crafted? Undeniably so. Hell each model could tumble straight off that runway straight into one of the Silencio's cavernous rooms, and fit right in (as long as she lights up a cig - she may look LA, but she must act parisienne!). Cool? There's a large dollop of that too. But most importantly, the way I see it, this collection boasts a certain "frisson of the unexpected" that was wanting in most of the Spring shows - the very same frisson that most critics deemed on first impression was lacking.

It's not just me, you feel it too, right? Hedi may not have revolutionized the way women will be dressing in 2013, certainly not in the same way that the skinny silhouette at Dior homme changed the face of manhood itself. The frisson was much more subtle than that. His aesthetic was so powerfully different from everything else on show this year, so true to his vision, so removed from what we were expecting, that I can't help but question whether all the negativity had more to do with petty PR wars and general frustration at Slimane trying to micro-manage every second of media coverage, than the clothes themselves.

"There was no show that echoed what Slimane created for Saint Laurent this season. Sadly, there were many shows that echoed each other in their shared influences and routinely include watered down Balenciaga-isms, Alaia-isms and Celine-isms." Susie Bubble hits the nail on the head. Why is it great? Because unlike all the sleek, pared-down, graphic minimalism, here is something utterly new to fill our wardrobes with. Something most of us will not have tried before, even though it is not technically box-fresh. Something that the general public understands and will be happy to buy into. Something that I want to make my own.

So to those who say ain't Laurent without Yves, I say don't let me catch you rockin' a wide-brim or Le Smoking anytime soon. Don't be dissin' the resurrector only to embrace his offspring, ok blud?

Pictured below, a quick gander of what I think Saint Laurent should be sending me [along with each piece's high-street counterpart (sort of), that might come in handy when I finally accept that none of these babe-staples will be coming my way any time soon..]


La femme Saint Laurent
From top left: Striped blazer (similar here), wide-brim fedora, soft sweatshirt (similar here), stud earrings (similar here, leather skirt (similar here), chain bag (similar here), heeled booties (similar here), bow collar (similar here), gold cuff and white shirt (similar here)

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26 comments:

  1. Great post Camille! And I could not agree with you more, this is definitely wearable, and as sleek as it gets! Great read first thing in the morning;)

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  2. I love the collection!!!!! xo, Alma
    http://www.soulofashopper.com

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  3. hahaha I have a huge want list as well -Saint Laurent team you better hear us! I'm a huge fan of the collection and I just made an outfit post inspired by it. check it out if you have time! xx
    http://www.surfaddictfashionista.com/2013/01/west-side-story.html

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  5. Totally disagree, I don't feel any frisson of new here at all. And it's what I've been seeing girls - 'normal', not fashion girls (I hate/love having to use that word) - wearing for ages. To me this collection looks like Hedi designing for his friends, for the women who already dress like this. It may be really nice if it's your thing, but it's not new. Like his menswear collection, lots of it is covetable but we've also seen it all before. Maybe that's why it is covetable - it's easy to like something you're already used to. Then again it was hard to see beyond the painfully anorexic (male) models. Or the pussy bows. I have a terrible hatred of those.

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    1. My point exactly: the frisson does not come from it being exciting and new but from it being different from what we are used to seeing the fashion crowd wearing right now. Maybe it is what 'normal people' as you call them are wearing right now.. but it's a nice breath of fresh air amongst the fashion microcosm.. I'm with you though, we have seen it all before. But most of us have not worn it before. That's what I was getting at.
      Cx

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  6. to die for, the most stylish witches out there

    http://www.moneasywardrobe.com

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  7. not bad at all but there are better collections of course ♥
    xoxo

    http://franchemeetsfashion.blogspot.cz/

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  8. I agree, the collection may not have been the twist everyone was expecting but I do like the wearable black&white smoking look. I also love the hats in these campaign images!

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  9. Beautiful collection, love this style! xx

    www.creativityandchocolate.blogspot.com

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  10. well... hats are fantastic :) I love it

    http://myfashionland-ela.blogspot.com/

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  11. Honestly, people pinned such high expectations on this collections before it was shown that disappointment was inevitable. Then we all realized that this collection just brought back Le smoking AND 70's in one collection (with a sense of new modernity too)- pretty damn impressive if you ask me.

    Don't even get me started on the shoes in that collection too.
    Love doesn't even cut it here.

    xo Camilla

    Into The Fold

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  12. Amen! totally agree with you and I am in love with everything!

    xoxo
    Catita
    http://catindreamland.blogspot.nl

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  14. I was surprised by the amount of negative sentiment around Slimane's first collection for SL. Had he gone wildly off in a direction that did not appropriately acknowledge and reflect the epic history of the House, he'd have been shunned for that. This collection not only modernised the elements we have seen in key pieces from YSL over the years, it brought a refreshed brand to an entirely fresh audience. Slimane opened the door to Saint Laurent for the next generation. It is wearable, impeccably tailored, beautifully crafted and on trend collection that has longevity. I.e. the pieces wont get shoved to the back of the wardrobe after one wear. There is no denying the master craftsmanship and revolutionary impact Yves had on fashion for decades. It is indeed a credit to him as it takes a very savvy designer/entire company to recognise that the House that they built (with their bare hands, from the ground up) is due for a refurb. In a nutshell, I love it. And Camille, could you be so kind as to have SL send those same items to me!? ;) Love your work as always. Great post. :) Bree

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  15. i can't really say i find this collection refreshing... a lot of the pieces are even modern classics, but that is exactly why i like it. for me they seem to be items worth investing it and sometimes that is more important than creating a new it-item or trend

    www.tripsandtreasures.net

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  16. Such a well written post. Really enjoyed reading it, and couldn't agree more with you. Team Hedi.

    http://thestyleswanthestyleswan.blogspot.co.uk/

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  17. I love this look!

    Vanessa

    http://thepinkmateproject.blogspot.com/

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  18. Amazing!!

    http://omotesandobags.wordpress.com/

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  19. I agree- I love this collection. All the pieces are wearable and timeless. Great luxury investment pieces that you can love forever!
    www.twoforthehowblog.com

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  20. you know dat! Such a well written piece of work and you've wrote what i think a lot of people are feeling about saint laurent x

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  21. Loving your Saint-Laurent wish-list and post!
    Definitely the most coveted allure for Spring ... pieces one couldn't get easily bored of!
    and that's so hard to achieve

    www.sylviaetc.blogspot.com

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Thank you for your comments. I read every single one of them x x x