Sterile creativitySaturday, March 23 2013
(Ph/ J.W. Anderson FW13 via Style.com)
Blame my genes if you will, but I’m hardly the experimental type. My easy dressing formula of distressed denim, slouchy tees and black booties gets me from season to season come what may on Trend Street. Yet when it comes to runway, I’m partial to a little conceptual flavoring. And since the Maison I usually turn to for my biannual dose of creativityhas since been invested by the Prince of wearable (more on that soon), the door was wide open for someone new to capture my impressionable imagination.
Fortunately, the answer came, and it came from London.
Jonathan Anderson may have banished last season’s fancy frills from his vocabulary, but that is not to say that his Spring-Summertheme no longer applies. In fact, and although I’m not normally one to impugn the artist’s own take on things, ‘The Treatment Room‘ is precisely the vibe I’m getting from his fall lineup (plus let’s face it, I have no clue what the man means by ‘The Semiology of the Self‘, the name of the game this time round).
Per usual,androgynyplayed a strong part. But it was the vaguely unsettling clinical feel of the clothes that elevated the look above and beyond the usual genderless minimalism that we have come to know well of late.From his orthopedic slip-ons that resembled nurse footwear, to the hospital gown allure of his open back skirts and dresses,the medical lexicon is as haunting as it is omnipresent. And there’s more where that came from. Thecolorfulrectangular patches sewn over pure white turtlenecks were reminiscent of straight jackets – or playful slings. And the cold austerity of the show space, together with the chilling rawness of the girl’s lifeless hair and makeup evoked what can only be described as asylum chic.
And as such, I’m sure his disturbinglyrivetingvision will not win everyone over. But it got me. Why? For Anderson’s fertile creativity to translate into such a sterile aesthetic, an aesthetic that shows ambition andunforeseeablenewness without ever compromising onpurityand abstractness, is nothing short of genius. London for the win!
Now, where are my converse…